“Never cook with a wine you wouldn’t drink,” he said. “Though I guess that presupposes that there is a wine I wouldn’t drink.”

Lev Grossman

Not content with being a thorn in the side of the major supermarket chains with their ‘nearly the same’ own label foods and their wonderfully eccentric central aisle of delights, Aldi have turned their attention to the world of fine wines.

But if I’m right, there’s no need for independent merchants to bulk order the antidepressants just yet.

While it looks like an assault on their traditional market, I don't think Aldi have weaponised fine wines, rather I think they are going to lead a new generation of shoppers into them.

Aldi’s choice of everything, including their new classic icon range, is very restricted by shelf space and their new selection, which I have to say has really floated my boat, is just enough to tease the type of clients who are the private merchant's bread and butter.

For many of their shoppers, this range will satisfy their every fine wine desire, but the independents only need a small percentage of them to want to go down the rabbit hole and a whole new generation of fine wine lovers will be created.

That's what happened for me 30 years ago, although it was the local Co-op in my case! They used to get small parcels of such delights as Chateau Leoville Barton, and once my young desires had been set free there was no going back. The next step was an Oz Clark book, followed by Berry Bros & Rudds brochure, and my palate has been partying ever since.

I, therefore, find myself in unusual territory with this column in making it all about one supermarket, something I never thought my free spirit would ever do, but fear not Fine Wine merchants across the land, this one is really for you in a weird masochistic type of way.

Châteauneuf Du Pape, Cuvee 13

Loganberries, raspberries, spice and mocha in abundance with a silky palate. This is like finding a low mileage Bentley for the price of a Ford Focus.

Aldi £16.99

Jean Bouchard Chablis 1er Cru

Clear, crisp minerality with floral notes on the nose leading into a refreshing silky palate with hints of apples. A cracking premier cru chablis at a bargain price.

Aldi £14.49